INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR MILLSTONE HARDWOOD FLOORING
FLOATING INSTALLATION
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties.
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
IMPORTANT!
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION
Tools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)
Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives
Suggested Notched Trowels:
Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line: For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area. Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding. (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)
STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSALLATION
Tools & Materials:
- Power saw, hammer, chalk line and tool listed below
- Staple Gun: Stanley Mark 3
- Staples: 1 1/2” Staples For 1/2” for MIFS or 1-1/2” Power cleats for Model 445
Sub floor & Preparation:
Sub floors should be flat to 3/16” per 8’ radius. If sub floor prep work is required, “highs” should be ground down and the “lows” filled with an underlayment patch. Acceptable sub floors are the following:
Acceptable sub floors are the following:
FLOATING INSTALLATION
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties.
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
IMPORTANT!
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION
Tools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)
Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives
Suggested Notched Trowels:
Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line: For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area. Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding. (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)
STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSALLATION
Tools & Materials:
- Power saw, hammer, chalk line and tool listed below
- Staple Gun: Stanley Mark 3
- Staples: 1 1/2” Staples For 1/2” for MIFS or 1-1/2” Power cleats for Model 445
Sub floor & Preparation:
Sub floors should be flat to 3/16” per 8’ radius. If sub floor prep work is required, “highs” should be ground down and the “lows” filled with an underlayment patch. Acceptable sub floors are the following:
Acceptable sub floors are the following:
- 5/8” minimum thickness, preferred 3/4” or thicker exterior plywood installed with long edges at right angle to floor joists and staggered so that end joints in adjacent panels break over different joists.
- 1” x 4” to 6” wide, square edged, kiln dried coniferous lumber, laid diagonally over 16” on center wooden joists. The ends of all boards are to be cut parallel to the center of the joists for solid bearing.
- 3/4 inch minimum O.S.B. on 19.2 inch center floor joists system properly nailed. New wood type sub floors should be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content, or 3% moisture content difference between hardwood flooring and sub floor. Adequate and proper nailing as well as soundness of the sub floor should be ascertained. Foreign material shall be removed from the sub floor surface and swept clean. The clean sub floor should be covered, wall-to-wall, with 15lb asphalt saturated felt. Lap edges of this felt 4” when positioning it. Double the felt around heat ducts in the floor. Basement and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. Crawl spaces must have a vapor barrier below sub floor on ground (6 or 8 mil. Poly)
- Flooring should be laid at right angles to the floor joists and, if possible, in the direction of the longest dimension of the room.
- All products have a UV-cured factory finish. It is important to make sure that the nail gun face plate will not damage the surface finish. 3M Blue tape can be placed on the faceplate to prevent damages.
- Starting to lay flooring: Begin laying T&G plank flooring in a room corner with the long groove of the plank facing the wall. Provide expansion space equal to the overall thickness of the wood flooring plank between the floor boards and the adjacent wall.
- End joints of plank: These should be staggered to achieve the best appearance in the finished floor. (minimum 6”)
- Nailing schedule for flooring: The first run should be faced nailed then counter sunk. All other runs to be nailed at an angle of 50° on 8” centers at the tongue, also nail within 2” of each end joint.
- Do not open flooring packages until you are ready to begin installation.
- A concrete slab is considered below grade when any part of the slab is below ground level—for example, basements are below grade.
- Baseboards should be installed so that their lower edge is slightly above the level of the finished floor, but not nailed into the floor.
- Do not install over radiant heat floors
- Do not install any product with visible defects
- To avoid movement in hardwood floor, relative humidity should be maintained year round at 45% 55% Relative Humidity.
- The use of color coordinated wood floor putty to cover small cracks and gaps should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations.
- See Warranty & Maintenance for more information.
